IDA CLUTCH SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
I’m so glad you’re here! Hope you enjoy the pattern!
First thing’s first, you’ll need to download and print the pattern. You can find it here on this post: INTRODUCING THE IDA CLUTCH
It is recommended that you use Acrobat Reader, and you must print at 100% (no scaling or fit to page) Check the 1″ square on page 1 before cutting out fabrics.
There are 4 pages, trim the right side edges, join them together at the triangles, tape together and cut out the pattern.
Grab all your materials from the list, have a read of the post about INTERFACING Ida Clutch before getting started sewing.
If you are having trouble finding the right length of metal zipper, have a look at the Denim Ida Clutch on the blog, it shows a method to use a shorter metal zipper.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 3/8″(1cm)
EXCEPT for when attaching the zipper, seam allowance: 1/4″ (6-7mm)
Cut out your fabrics, 2 x main (OUTER) and 2 x Lining from Pattern Piece A. Cut 2 x interfacing Pattern Piece B (or cut 4 if you wish to use interfacing on your lining too) Cut 2 x Pattern Piece C. Pocket/s are optional. Fuse interfacings to fabrics, as per the link above.
INFO about these fabrics. Outer is a polyester upholstery fabric, it was an off-cut from my friend’s bedhead, she commissioned me to sew some matching cushions, and there was still a bit left for this clutch! The lining is a medium weight quilting cotton (I did not interface it).
For this particular clutch, for the OUTER, I used lightweight interfacing for Piece B, and a very stiff interfacing for Piece C, so I cut out the darts and seam allowance to reduce bulk. More info in the post about Interfacing.
I usually poke a hole in the apex of the dart on the pattern with a toothpick, and cut little notches from the edges.
Mark the apex and the two notches with a pen on the wrong side of the OUTER and LINING pieces
Use a ruler to draw lines joining the dots
Do this for all of the darts on the lining and outer pieces.
Now is the time to add pockets if you wish, see post Pocket Ideas for Ida Clutch
Prepare the darts, fold at a 45 degree angle, right through the centre of the dart, and pinch. Be sure that the lines are matching on both sides. (Lining at the left is to show where the dart folds)
Pin if you wish.
Sew the darts, starting at the the raw edge, sew toward the apex, once you reach the apex, backstitch while slightly pivoting to direct the stitches into the wing.
Here is a closeup of the sewn darts. Do the same for all 8 darts.
Check the front and back are sewn equally
For outer: Press darts towards bottom of clutch, and topstitch in place.
Start from the raw edge, backstitch a few stitches at the apex.
Don’t cut that thread! See next photo…
Neat trick: pull the bobbin thread from behind to pull the loop of the top thread to the back then use a pin or unpicker to catch the loop, pull through to the back, tie off and trim. This gives a much neater and stronger finish for the darts, which can be a stress/friction point.
For lining: Press darts towards side of clutch and either topstitch like the previous step or baste inside the seam allowance.
Now you’ve got all the parts ready, onto assembling!
Mark the centre point on all of the curved edges and on the zipper tape (both sides)
From now on I will refer to the zipper with the words TOP SIDE and UNDER SIDE
This is a curved seam, it’s easier than you think! The most important step to remember is to match up the centre points. We are going to baste the lining with the UNDER SIDE of the zipper facing the RIGHT SIDE of the lining (as shown).
Match the centre points and pin.
Take the zipper tape and fold it at a 45 degree angle towards the lining (towards the UNDER SIDE of the zipper). Pin leaving approximately 1/2″ seam allowance at the side from the zipper stop.
Do the same fold on the zipper tape to the other end, pinning in place. It might not seem like the zipper fits well, but it will work! Trust me!
It’s time to change to your sewing machine’s zipper foot.
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE FOR THE ZIPPER IS 1/4″ (6-7mm)
As you can see with my zipper foot is very narrow, and in my opinion it is ideal, because it is 1/4″ (6-7mm).
Zippers and zipper tape widths vary. Being a curved seam, if you sew too close to the teeth it will be difficult to slide open and closed.
See below image of a few different zips and their tape widths are different.
If you stick with 1/4″ seam allowance, you will be right!
Baste the zipper onto the lining, use a scant 1/4″ seam allowance (meaning a little narrower than 1/4″) Doing this will ensure this row of stitches will be concealed by the next row of stitches when attaching the OUTER. As you sew, ease the zipper tape to the shape of the curve. The point of basting the zipper onto the lining is to secure the folded end of the zipper tape, to make sure the curved raw edge lines up accurately with the zipper tape, which in turn makes the end product super neat 🙂
Ease the zipper tape with the curve of the raw edge. Use your fingers! Remember – sew a scant 1/4″ (6-7mm) seam!
Here you can see the row of basting stitches. Check that you’ve attached the zipper correctly before proceding! The TOP SIDE of the zipper should be facing up, the UNDER SIDE of the zipper against the RIGHT SIDE of the lining.
Now take the zipper and place it on top of one of the outer fabrics, TOP SIDE of zipper against RIGHT SIDE of outer. Pin at the Centre point.
Use 2 more pins at each end.
Sew, backstitching at beginning and end. This row of stitches is at a 1/4″ (6-7mm) seam allowance. It should be right next to the previous row of basting stitches, this row slightly closer to the teeth of the zipper. Try to make this as even and neat as possible. You’ll likely need to stop half way and move the zipper pull (with needle down and presser foot up) out of your way.
You can see the two lines of stitching here.
Press outer and lining away from the zipper, check that the fabric is pressed right at the stitches and not any closer to the zipper teeth, check that everything is even on both sides.
Stop and admire your neat zipper tape ends concealed between the layers 🙂
Topstitch close to the edge of the fabric the whole length from raw edge of the side to the other raw edge.
*We are doing the same to the other side of the clutch, but I’ll walk through the steps again..
RIGHT SIDE lining against UNDER SIDE of zipper. Line up the centre points and pin.
Fold the edge of the zipper tape at 45 degree angle towards the lining, pin.
Do the same to the other end.
Baste in place, with with scant 1/4″ (6-7mm) seam allowance.
Place the TOP SIDE of the zipper against the RIGHT SIDE of the outer fabric.
Match centre points, pin, pin both ends.
Sew, with 1/4″ (6-7mm) seam allowance, backstitching at both ends, take your time, make it neat!
Press fabrics away from zipper.
Topstitch the second side along the curve, close to the edge of the fabric. You’ve successfully inserted the zipper!
Take a moment to admire your neat zipper 🙂
And on the inside too!
Time for snaps! NOW, BEFORE YOU GET SNAP-HAPPY….. The bottom snap must ONLY go through the outer layer!!! The squares of fabric there are for reinforcing the bottom snap area. The top snap may not need it because I usually punch through all layers including the lining.
Close the clutch and check if the snap markings line up where they should. The markings are a guide and you may need to move the top one to suit how the clutch folds.
Checking the markings line up!
Punch a hole where the marking is, also punch a hole through the little scrap fabric for reinforcement.
These are the bits for the bottom snap. Reminder: only attach the snap through the outer layer.
Poke the snap base through the hole in the reinforcement scrap fabric, and the outer fabric.
Place the other side of the snap on the top of the fabric, use the base and top tool provided in your kit to hold in place.
Hammer time!! I like to do about 8-12 steady taps, don’t go too hard, you just want to stretch the metal pin evenly inside the snap.
Repeat for the top snap, except you may need/want to punch through all the layers including the lining, it will be visible on the inside of the clutch.
VERY IMPORTANT: unzip zipper at least half way!!! Otherwise, you wont be able to access it to turn right side out once its sewn shut.
Pull layers away from zip, Right Sides together outer and lining, as shown.
Line up the outer fabrics where the topstitching is as even as possible. Pin!
Match up dart seams, pin.
Pin a few more areas around the perimeter, we will be leaving a large gap in the lining for turning. See the markings I have made? Thats a big gap but it makes life easier 🙂
With a 3/8″(1cm) seam allowance, sew from the marking in the lining around the raw edge and stop at the other marking, backstitching at both ends. It is tricky to sew near the join of the lining and outer, because of the zipper. I use my zipper foot for this step too so I can get closer to the zipper stop. I backstitch a little over that area too for strength.
Sew another line of stitches on or just next to the seam for added strength on the curve.
Clip seams down to 1/4″ but leave the allowance where the gap in the lining is. I don’t clip the curved corners but I trim a little closer.
Trim/clip around the top of the outer near the zip, will help to get a neater corner when turned.
Pull outer through the gap in the lining, turn right way out.
Reach inside and push out the curved bottom corners and push out the corners near the zipper.
Admire your beautiful darts!
Admire your neat zipper!
Pull the lining out of the clutch.
Press the seam allowance inside the lining, pin.
Sew the lining closed, close to the edge, catching both sides. Backstitch at both ends.
I love the hearts on the lining 🙂
I almost don’t want to give this away!!!!
I hope my instructions were clear, I’ve tried to be very thorough, but if you have any questions, please contact me!
And I would love to see what you make!
Use #idaclutch #katmpatterns #kylieandthemachine