KYLIE AND THE MACHINE | INTERFACING Ida Clutch
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INTERFACING Ida Clutch

INTERFACING Ida Clutch

INTERFACING: Ida Clutch

The bones of this project, really is, the interfacing. Depending on which type and how much interfacing you use, will determine the outcome of the clutch. I’ve experimented with different types and weights of interfacing, also different methods of placement, and really, all of them worked fine! Mainly it depends on the outer fabric you’ve chosen, how thick it is, and how structured you want the clutch.

You can simply layer and fuse Pattern Piece C on top of Pattern Piece B on the wrong side of the outer fabric.

Simply layering the two interfacing pieces. I used two different colours of interfacing to show the two layers.

 

The darts in the bottom corners get pretty thick when the final seam is sewn, this should be your #1 factor when deciding how to interface your clutch. If you’d like a very structured clutch and know that you will be dealing with thick dart and seam area.. you can easily trim the interfacing before you sew. From Pattern Piece B and/or C you can trim the seam allowance (3/8”/1cm) off the side and bottom edges (the top edge has already been trimmed for a neat zipper insertion) You can also cut a wedge out of one or both interfacing pieces inside the darts, just transfer the dart markings and cut the wedge out.

 

Pattern Piece B fused on the wrong side of the outer fabric

 

Here I’ve just cut out the wedge

 

Here I’ve just cut out the wedge

 

For really thick fabrics or if you want a really stiff clutch and using stiff interfacing, you’ll probably need to cut off the seam allowances also.

Cut off approx 3/8″(1cm) around the curved edge of Pattern Piece C x 2

Take Pattern Piece C and lay on wrong side outer fabric, after you’ve already fused Pattern Piece B onto the outer. Draw a line along the edge of the piece. This is the fold line and it’s important to know where this is.

Place the trimmed Piece C onto the first layer of interfacing which has the dart markings drawn.

Cut out the wedge along dart lines. Then fuse! This will help with sewing the perimetre of the clutch, still give stiffness and structure without bulk.

Doing these two things can GREATLY improve the ease of sewing thicker fabrics when it comes to assembling the outer shell of the clutch. Not only that, but the bottom corners will sit nice and curved without a lot of clipping, I really try to avoid clipping there (and trim instead) because I don’t want have any fraying once the clutch is turned right way out.

As for the lining, I have used a light fusible interfacing (Pattern Piece B) on thin fabrics, and I trim the bottom seam allowance before fusing which makes it easier when sewing to close up the hole.

If you want a super structured clutch, you can also fuse a Pattern Piece C onto the lining, also consider trimming the bottom seam allowance.

Remember that if your outer is more structured and stiff, when you come to sewing the bag perimeter, you must leave a bigger hole in the lining so you can turn your clutch right way out 🙂

Any questions please contact me!

3 Comments
  • Katherine

    May 7, 2017 at 7:09 am

    I have never seen leather before but I would like to give it a go with your clutch. Do you interface leather? It seems like a weird idea.

  • Katherine

    May 7, 2017 at 7:10 am

    That should be sewn leather

  • kylieandthemachine

    May 8, 2017 at 9:57 pm

    I did interface the leather because mine was very thin lambskin, it all depends. You can interface the lining instead too 🙂

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